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Tag Archives: shoes

shoes, status signals and property rights

A book that you write is your intellectual property. But what if you design the sole of a shoe?

As econlife described last year:

“The trademark of designer Christian Louboutin, his red soles are supposed to represent glamour, luxury and hidden status. Or, as stated by Mr. Louboutin, ‘A shoe has so much more to offer than just a walk.’

Agreeing, fashion house Yves Saint Laurent (YSL), designed its own line of luxury shoes with colored soles and wound up in a Manhattan courthouse. Louboutin claimed trademark infringement. Saying a red shoe sole is “ornamental and functional,” the court supported YSL.”

But now, most of the decision has been reversed.

A federal court of appeals has said that except for a monochromatic red shoe, Louboutin and only Louboutin has the right to a red sole. Saying that, “We hold that the lacquered red outsole, as applied to a shoe with an ‘upper’ of a different color, has ‘come to identify and distinguish’ the Louboutin brand and…qualifies for trademark protection.”

If your can call the sole your intellectual property, what about the shoe?

Probably not. Like jackets and pants and shirts, shoes are too utilitarian to be protected by intellectual property laws. We all have the right to copy their design. (Please see below for more on what is protected.)

A debate that we can trace back to Alexander Hamilton, James Madison and Thomas Jefferson, the question about whether and how long we can own what we create has been timeless. While patents, copyrights and trademarks can propel a market economy, sometimes they constrain progress.

For fashion, experts like Johanna Blakley believe a copycat culture is good.

Sources and Resources: You can see both sides of the fashion industry “copycat” debate at econlife, here and here and read more about both court cases here and here. In addition, I recommend this wonderful TED talk and a more serious econtalk interview from Johanna Blakley. For more on Christian Louboutin, this New Yorker article was an especially good read.

copyright protected and unprotected industries

Fashion and other industries without intellectual property protection from TED talk, Johanna Blakley

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shoes, status signals and property rights

During a panel discussion, my students were told by a business woman not to wear sandals or even open-toed shoes for a job interview. But, does a shoe really send that much of message?

Focusing on the accuracy of the first impression a shoe creates, a University of Kansas study gave some answers. Called an appearance cue, a shoe might convey information about income, gender, age and agreeableness. It could reflect a personality that is agreeable, extroverted, and avoids close relationships. Researchers even thought that the shoes you wear might indicate your political preference.

So, they designed an experiment to test whether the self-described characteristics of shoe owners would be conveyed to people looking at digital images of their shoes. Seeing a colorful, pointy shoe, for example, would you assume that the person was an extrovert? A female? Are people with shoes in good condition worried about what others think and those who display brands more affluent?

Their results confirmed only a few of their hypotheses. Yes, with reasonable accuracy a first impression based on shoes will determine gender, age, income, agreeableness and even attachment anxiety. However, shoes will not reliably convey a first impression about most of your personality traits nor your political affiliation.

Still though, for a job interview, shoes do matter.

To read an overview describing the shoe study, I suggest this Bloomberg article while the original academic paper can be accesssed here. Trying to reconcile some of my skepticism about the study, I then looked at and recommend this paper about luxury goods, conspicuous consumption, and first impressions. Referring to Thorstein Veblen and categorizing people as patricians, parvenues, poseurs and plebs, they explained that a first impression depends on the target audience for your “status signal.” And, by understanding the kinds of status signals people send, luxury brands can increase sales.

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